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South Vancouver & Marpole

South Vancouver is a sprawling district of residential neighbourhoods like Punjabi Market, where Indian eateries dish up samosas and biryani and shops sell saris and jewelry. In the leafy Kerrisdale area, indie book and fashion stores mix with cozy cafes along a villagelike stretch of West 41st Avenue. Green spaces include several golf courses and Fraser River Park, whose boardwalks cross restored tidal marshes.

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Immigrants from Punjab — a state that straddles the Indian-Pakistani border — first arrived in British Columbia more than a century ago to work in the booming lumber trade. But it wasn’t until the 1970s, when a mass influx of Punjabis settled in South Vancouver, that Punjabi Market truly blossomed and Vancouver’s Indo-Canadian community became inextricably woven into the city’s cultural fabric. Historically, patrons of local shops and groceries have been predominantly Indian, and, although gentrification and high rents have left some storefronts empty, it’s still possible to get a taste of the city’s Indo-Canadian identity.
Though not actually a food, pan is sold by some restaurants and shops in Punjabi Market. Known as betel nut, this stimulant is a traditional Indian breath freshener and is chewed in leaf-wrapped bundles packed with areca nut, lime and spices.

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